Meronomy - Parts of a Whole
October 7th, 2024 – Santa Fe, NM
A new system of clothing development and delivery; one design concept, three supply chains.
Meronomy (n) /məˈrɑnəmi/ - a practice of classification dedicated to the organization of parts and their relation to a whole. While the uniform exemplifies a singular unit of larger human lifestyle needs, it only manifests through the composition of many parts (i.e. clothing, sewing blocks, bags, etc.). While we can consider a uniform a whole entity, in order to set boundaries for design and development, we can also break it down exponentially into smaller constructive parts. In this case, Ground Cover aims to define the uniform as an efficacious entity and break it down via complimentary garment and supply chain in order to build a dialogue with its wearers.
Uniform as Whole
Whether over-considered or purposefully ignored, clothing is a ripe physiological need for humans. Through activity-oriented utility and abstract-beauty expression, clothing extends into the cultural significance of humanity. Meaning, clothing can create value for us whether it is protecting us from the cold or used in religious ceremony.
In this way, clothing can be classified as a unit under our strange existentialist needs alongside food, shelter, music, and others. It differs from the others in its semi-permanence, fabrication, supply chain, and aesthetic prioritization.The efficacy of categorizing clothing as a unit lives within the conceptual.
For Ground Cover, we love defining our work as clothing over fashion and uniform over seasonal collection. Creating a framework for an entity allows us to operate within and play with the borderlands; it breeds creativity, depth, and intention rather than bleeding into many other realms.
Uniform Made Up of Parts
The Ground Cover uniform will be built with complimentary styles that don’t cannabalize one another’s aesthetic or utility. Rather than creating a soup of thousands of styles, we can refine pertinent clothing styles over time in conversation with wearers. Each garment is viewed as a node in the Ground cover uniform which serves purpose and spirit.
In fact, there are multiple layers of parts to the uniform. Garment categories can be made for bottoms, accessories, footwear, etc. One could even make the case for a completing layer structure: base layer, mid layer, exterior layer, extreme cold layer, etc. The structure depends on a slew of priorities unique to the involved.
Parts as Whole
Further, underneath these branches, one can find different items (representing a whole) that are the infrastructure to such subcategories. In the case for bottoms, unique pants and shorts will serve respected use cases. Long johns are great for seasonal warmth and aesthetic layering. Shorts with utility pockets don’t compete with the utility of long johns and build a symbiotic relationship when worn in the correct situation.
Parts Made Up of Parts
Each design concept, such as long johns, is a fully fledged entity in its own right- an entity composed of sewing patterns, materials, sizes, and many other branches that will further spread into minutia. From a production standpoint, classifying the parts of a garment (which is a part of a subsect of a uniform) aids in efficient development. We know all too well about lean manufacturing and its silly importance to the materialization of an idea, but how about the consideration of how a garment interacts with its wearers and vice versa.
Often considered a strict independent variable to lower costs and timeline as much as inhumanely possible, the supply chain stands as a strong candidate for further scrutiny. If we create a multitude of supply chains for the consumer to navigate, we give them the power to interact with the garment and make informed decisions. Offering one singular garment via three distinct supply chains (inherently different levels of involvement with the garment) allows for an immediate conflict and later a deeper relationship with the garment in question.
Meronomy, as a project under Ground Cover, is an exploration of contemporary wearer-clothing relations whereby potential customers must immediately navigate the way in which they interact with Ground Cover clothing. Ideally, this confrontation will breed a curiosity and deeper relationship with their wardrobe. Garments have inherent utilitarian and cultural significance, but both pricepoint and supply chain remain fixed variables. Low-priced clothing is reliant on labor exploitation and has tainted the perceived value of textile and clothing production. Luxury clothing has created an elitist individualism achievable only through consumption. We have brought individual design concepts to life through three unique supply chains in order to study the relationship between wearer and garment: EXPLORATION, GENERAL ISSUE, and TRAINING.
Tier 01 - Training:
Do-it-yourself garment creation circumvents the immense challenges of local production. With purchase, you received a downloadable sewing pattern and video guide to craft your own- just as you'd like it. Alter measurements, fabric, and seam construction. By making a garment oneself, the wearer gains true understanding and ownership over their costume. Releasing our I.P. for other's interpretations is the quickest way to a democratized fashion supply chain.
Tier 02 - General Issue:
These garments are ready-to-wear. General Issue provides ethically made small batch production from our partner factory in Los Angeles. The efficiency of a garment assembly line allows for a lower price point while supporting domestic businesses and garment workers. These styles are a refined version of our *EXPLORATIONS,* and offer greater wearability and, hence, functionality. Ready-to-wear clothing offers consumers realistically-priced attire with beauty and function; these two are not independent of one another.
Tier 03 - Exploration:
Garments are vessels for human actualization.
Exploration units are made in house by Ground Cover's artisans as a means of fully unearthing a design concept post-patternmaking. Unique fabrics, treatments, and appliques are key to this endeavor. Every object is unique and is labeled as such. Each garment is made start to finish by one sewer. This increases time and cost, but it also deepens the relationship between maker and garment. Garments can be made-to-order following customer measurements, fabrication desires, and aesthetic choice.
